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SANctuary: The Art of Lockpicking (part 1)

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SANctuary
 · 19 Jul 2020

  

The Art of Lockpicking
======================

An Introduction
---------------

Issue 1.0




Thanks goes out to:
==================


Red - Your board is on its way to greatness...
Steve Arnold - Nice little shop you got there...
Yardly Flouride - Dragonfire may be down, but it will always be
rembered... (Right, Mr. Sandza?)
Storm Citadel - You are a schmuck, but are still my !! PUPIL !!


Distrubuted and Compiled by:
===========================


-----=====< Havok >=====-----
-----=====< Halcyon >=====-----


Chief Magistrate of the City of Sanctuary

Home to all Criminals, Thieves, and Beggars
















10/5/90


Introduction
------------

Well, as they say, starting off is the hardest part. This applies to
many things as well as the topic we are about to discuss this evening, or
whenever the hell you are reading this. When I first got interested in
lockpicking, it was difficult for me to find any sort of phile that
explained ANYTHING at all about it. I saw a few here and there and decided
that if I could compile a large phile made of many smaller philes and
several peoples assorted research, (including my own) I could get one hell
of an interesting little do-dad for all those aspiring little thieves out
there. So here it is! But, enough of this Bull-shit.....let's get to
it.....


A NOTE TO ALL FEDS, PIGS, AND OTHER ANIMALISTIC BEINGS:
------------------------------------------------------

-=>---------------------------------------------------------------------<=-
-=> !!!!!PLACE STUPID AND RETARDED DISCLAIMER HERE!!!!! <=-
-=> <=-
-=> This phile is intended for (as usual) information purposes ONLY!!! <=-
-=> So if any info in this phile is used for illegal activity, it <=-
-=> ain't my fault or anyone else's except the particular individual. <=-
-=> After all, we didn't FORCE him to read this or pick any locks. <=-
-=> <=-
-=>---------------------------------------------------------------------<=-


Basic Picking
--------------

In the following, you will see the instruments used for picking in TEXT
form about as good as they can get.


Some things you will need to know just to start picking:

1) MANUAL DEXTERITY - If you have no self control, then don't even
think of picking locks.

2) KNOW HOW LOCK WORKS - This is very easy. It works sorta like an
engine, with the tumblers acting like the
pistons. (They move up and down)

3) CORRECT TOOLS - You can either make them or buy them. Buying is
much better. (A place to purchase lockpicks from
through mail order is listed at the end of this
article.)

4) !!PRACTICE!! - You will never be any good at lockpicking if you
don't. It is possible to pick a 5 tumbler (easy-medium lock) in under 1
minute, but that ain't gonna happen if ya don't practice. Not to mention,
if ya don't practice, and fuck up when your trying to break into something,
that extra time you take due to inexperiance could cost ya some freedom on
this great planet of ours. Get the point??????

The Entry Lock
--------------

An entry lock is a front door lock, or some sort of lock that protects
what's on the other side. These are usually 5 tumbler locks, and can be
picked with some sort of ease. Go to your local K-Mart and get an El-Chepo
entry lock and give yourself a blue dot special discount. (Either 5-finger
or price reduction.) (THIS MEANS STEAL IT DUMMY!!) Once you have this, then
take the fucker apart. This may/is easier said then done. All you will need
when you are down is the part that the key goes into. After getting that
and looking it over, you will find a cap type thing on the top of the lock.
VERY CAREFULLY TAKE THAT OFF!!! If you slip and open it too fast, the
springs will go flying into a void and never be found again. The figure for
the lock is figure 4.
Once the cover is off, dump 4 of the spring and tumblers into a
holeless baggie (Ziplock preferred). Stick the cap back on and you are
ready to use the 1 tumbler lock. This is very easy to pick, that is why
you are starting with it.

Pickings
--------

Now you are ready to pick, but what? NO PICKS? Looks like you are
screwed unless you get some quick. If you are going to make them, then get
some blue spring steel and a grinder. The final product mustbe about .025x
.125 flat. If you already have your picks, then read on!
Take your one (1) tumbler lock and the feeler pick (fig. 1), and your
tension wrench (fig. 3). Hold the lock in your other habd (ie. if you are
righty then hold it in your left, and vice versa) adn stick the tension
wrench into the bottom part, so that it doesn't obstruct the feeler pick as
it moves in and out. Now turn the tension wrench downward (or whatever way
will open your lock but usually clockwise) and insert your feeler pick. You
shoudn't have to stick it in far because you are only using 1 tumbler, adn
can probably see it where you are looking. Now gently push up on the
tumbler, and the lock should open. If this fails to happen, then let loose
on the wrench and try again. If you still can't do this, then give up, YOU
ARE A LOSER IN LIFE!!! If you did open your lock, then CONGRATS!!!
After you have picked your lock, then try it again and again and again
so that you get the feel of how much pressure to put on the wrench and the
tumbler. When you think you hve an idea of what you are doing, open up the
cap (CAREFULLY!) and stick in another tumbler (both of them) adn the
spring. You should now have two tumblers installed. Now try to pick this
one. Should be a little harder, but no huge difference. If it doesn't
happen all at once, then try again. If you still can't do it, then this
time you are NOT a loser in life, just someone who WILL have no future.
Once you are done with your 2 tumbler lock, then stick in three, then
4 and then 5 tumblers. The more there are, the harder the lock will be to
pick. In one day, I got up to 4 tumblers, 5 is tricky. For less tumblered
locks, a raking pick is good to use (fig. 5).

The biggest thing in in lockpicking is just getting enouf practice.
Once you think you have 5 tumblers, try oyu garage door lock (locked, duh!)
and see if oyu can get in. Don't worry, there will be no marks on the lock
itself so MOMMY or DADDY won't shit all over you for messing with the
locks.


FIGS. 1-5:


1) The Feeler Pick in TEXT


________________________
\ `---------------^,
\______________________,----------------'

The end part there goes up smoothly to a rounded end of some chicks tits.


2) What The Tumblers Look Like And The Spring

In the locks, the tumblers are different sizes (the ridges in the key
should have told you that) so that is would be stupid to try and show all
of the different lengths. The spring in half the size of a pen spring.
(no figure)


3) The Tension Wrench

___________________________:
:
:

The wrench should be somewhat thicker so that it doesn't bend on your ass.


4) The Basic Tumbler Lock:


CAP---,
\:/
_____-------------------__
: IoI IoI IoI IoI IoI :
: IiI IiI IiI IiI IiI :
========================= :
---------------------------

o = The smaller of the two tumblers.
i = The larger of the two tumblers.
= = The passage way of the key. (KeyWay)


5) The Rack Pick (very rough)

______________________ ,- ,- ,- ,-
\ `----------------- ` ` ` :
\____________________;---------------------------'

This pick is just a varation of the feeler pick, 'cept that it has
ridges that move the tumblers up and down fast.




Well, that's about it. Happy Picking.

THE LOGIC GATE Help Phile 2 - 908-874-4101 - HST - 160 Megs
File Originated from MIXTURES FOR DESTRUCTION WWIVnet SUB number 9811
Written by Chuck.


Combination Locks
=================

Introduction
------------

As you know, many people use combination locks to protect their
property and personal possesions. With most, there is no keyhole, barring
the ones used on regular lockers in the hall way of schools. The following
will try to help you "PICK" some of the most populare combination locks
used today.



[<%: THE DARK FOREST [312] 232:8804 :%>]

{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=-
-=} {=-
-=} {=-
-=} Picking Combination Locks {=-
-=} {=-
-=} {=-
-=} A Metal Communications Presentation {=-
-=} {=-
-=} {=-
-=} Written by: The Byte Byter {=-
-=} {=-
-=} {=-
-=} The writer of this text file takes <all> responsibility for what {=-
-=} {=-
-=} this text file is used for. Hopefully it will only be used for {=-
-=} {=-
-=} illegal purposes cuz i can't think of a reason it can be used for {=-
-=} {=-
-=} legally. Well, on with the text file. {=-
-=} {=-
{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=-
-=} {=-
-=} Call: /\/\etalland 1 10megs AE/BBS/Cat-Fur Line! [503]538-0761 {=-
-=} {=-
{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=-


Ok, so ya say ya wanna learn how to pick combination locks...This text
file SHOULD help you. As a matter of fact, if ya do it right, it WILL help
you. First of all, let me tell you about the set-up of a lock. When the
lock is locked, there is a curved piece of metal wedged inside the little
notch on the horseshoe shaped bar that is pushed in to the lock when you
lock it. To free this wedge, you must(must is a word used to much) you
usually(that sounds much better) have to turn the lock to the desired
combination and the pressure on the wedge is released therefore letting the
lock open. I will now tell you how to make a pick so you can open a lock
without having to waste all that time turning the combination (this also
helps when ya don't know the combination to begin with).
First of all, ya need to find a hairpin. What's a hairpin? Well, just
ask your mom. She will have one. If she asks what its for, say ya gotta
hold something together... If she says use a rubberband or use a
paperclip, tell her to fuck off and die and then go to the store and rip
off a box of 50 or so. Ok, enough stalling (yea, i was stalling).
Once you have your hair pin (make sure its metal), take the ridged
side and break it off right before it starts to make a U-turn onto the
straight side. The curved part can now be used as a handle. Now, using a
file, file down the other end until it is fairly thin. You should do this
to many hairpins and file them so they are of different thicknesses so you
can pick various locks. Some locks are so cheap that ya don't even have ta
file! But most are not.
Ok, now you have a lock pick. Now if ya haven't figured it out,
here's how ya use it. You look at a lock to see which side the lock opens
from. If you can't tell, you will just have to try both sides. When ya
find out what side it opens from, take the lock pick and stick the filed
end into the inside of the horseshoe-shaped bar on whichever side the lock
opens from. Now, put pressure on the handle of the lock pick (pushing
down, into the crack) and pull the lock up and down. The lock will then
open because the pick separated the wedge and the
notch allowing us thieves to open it.
Don't say bullshit until you've tried it. Because I have gotten lots
of beer money from doin' this to fellow students' gym lockers. Also, this
technique works best on American locks. I have never picked a Master lock
before because of the shape a pressure of the wedge but if anyone does it,
let me know how long it took. Also, the Master lock casing is very tight
so ya can't get the pick in. So, if you're locking something valuable up,
use a Master, cuz at least ya know I won't be picking it and I'm sure there
aren't that many that could. And when I say pick, i don't mean lighting a
stick of dynamite next to the lock, picking is opening a lock without using
force, making a substitute key, etc... If any of you believe that this
information is not sufficient for picking an American lock, or any other
kind besides Master, leave me a message at:

/\/\etallant 1 (503) 538-0761.

This concludes my text file on picking combination locks. My next
text file will probably be "Picking key locks". See ya later.

The Byte Byter
^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^








+==========================================+
+ BE A LOCKPICK, GET INTO PADLOCKS +
+ "HOW TO CRACK A PADLOCK" +
+==========================================+

I must attribute this message/file to reading I have done from another
files about this, and some methods that I have made up on my own.
This method has been only assured with "Master" padlocks. They are a
very common padlock.. This might only work on those, but who knows..
First, pull the lock down, not so much as that it is impossible to
turn, but just enough to be able to do the following: Turn the knob around
clockwise (to the right) until you feel a small, small resistance which
will last 2-3 numbers on the dial long. You might try doing this a few
times to find the exact number that it does this on, and not to be
mistaken with another. Now, add 5 to the number you have gotten. Guess
what? You have the first number in the combonation!
There are a few mehods to get the next number. I will tell you both, one
method, is very quick, but not always 100% reliable. The other is very
difficult.
QUICK METHOD: This method will get the last two numbers in the
combination in one step.
--First, turn right and stop on the first number you got. Then, turn
left and stop on the first number again. Continue turning to the left to
the next marked number. This means that the dial goes by five, and if your
first number is 18, go to the 20.. Then turn to the dial to the right
again, while pulling down on the lock (as hard as you pull to unlock it if
you have the right combo), and keep turning to the right until you get to
the 2nd number you've tried. If it doesn't unlock, go on to the next marked
number on the dial. (For instance, you're first number is 18, you tried 20
past right, it doesn't work, then try 25.) Keep doing this until eventually
you unlock it, or it doesn't work. The most times that you would have to do
this is about 8.
HARD, BUT NEVER FAILS METHOD: As in above, turn right to your first
number, and then turn left until you get your first number again. Begin
pulling down on the lock again, and trying to feel for a little resistance.
If it is very stiff, you probably have the second number. If it is weak,
then continue turning. You should try 2 or 3 times to make sure you get the
same results. After you think you've got the second number, turn back to
the right, while pulling down on the lock between tries of oh, say every 3
numbers, and eventually, CLICK, it will open.
//=DISCLAIMER: I am not held responsible for the use of this
information. This is for, let's say, basic knowledge... Let's say, if you
ever forget your combonation, or it is very important you get into another
lock.
This file/message has been brought to you by MASTER MICRO!



Miscellaneous Locks
===================

Introduction
------------
Some of you who are a bit more experiance in BBsing and the type of
stuff that go along with it (ie, phreaking/hacking), may have wondered what
a phellow such as Agent Bioc 003 has to do with a phile about locks. Very
little actually, but when I was reading over his manuals again, I though it
would be a good idea to include that little segment concerning phone locks
in this tutorial. While they may not be used much anymore, it is not hard
to remember how to get around one of these locks, if such a time arises.
See here.....


|--------------------------|
| Infinity's Edge |
| |
| PRESENTS |
| |
| Agent Bioc 003 |
|--------------------------------------|


DIAL LOCKS

HAVE YOU EVER BEEN IN AN OFFICE OR SOMEWHERE AND WANTED TO MAKE A
FREE FONE CALL BUT SOME ASSHOLE PUT A LOCK ON THE FONE TO PREVENT OUT-GOING
CALLS?
FRET NO MORE PHELLOW PHREAKS, FOR EVERY SYSTEM CAN BE BEATEN WITH A
LITTLE KNOWLEDGE!
THERE ARE TWO WAYS TO BEAT THIS OBSTACLE, FIRST PICK THE LOCK, I
DON'T HAVE THE TIME TO TEACH LOCKSMITHING SO WE GO TO THE SECOND METHOD
WHICH TAKES ADVANTAGE OF TELEPHONE ELECTRONICS.
TO BE AS SIMPLE AS POSSIBLE, WHEN YOU PICK UP THE FONE YOU COMPLETE A
CIRCUIT KNOW AS A LOCAL LOOP. WHEN YOU HANG-UP YOU BREAK THE CIRCUIT.
WHEN YOU DIAL (PULSE) IT ALSO BREAKS THE CIRCUT BUT NOT LONG ENOUGH TO
HANG UP! SO YOU CAN "PUSH-DIAL." TO DO THIS YOU >RAPIDLY< DEPRESS THE
SWITCHHOOK.
FOR EXAMPLE, TO DIAL AN OPERATOR (AND THEN GIVE HER THE NUMBER YOU
WANT CALLED) >RAPIDLY< & >EVENLY< DEPRESS THE SWITCHHOOK 10 TIMES. TO DIAL
634-1268, DEPRESS 6 X'S PAUSE, THEN 3 X'S, PAUSE, THEN 4 X'S, ETC. IT
TAKES A LITTLE PRACTICE BUT YOU'LL GET THE HANG OF IT. TRY PRACTICING
WITH YOUR OWN # SO YOU'LL GET A BUSY TONE WHEN RIGHT. IT'LL ALSO WORK ON
TOUCH-TONE(TM) SINCE A DTMF LINE WILL ALSO ACCEPT PULSE. ALSO, NEVER
DEPRESS THE SWITCHHOOK FOR MORE THAN) A SECOND OR IT'LL HANG-UP!
FINALLY, REMEMBER THAT YOU HAVE JUST AS MUCH RIGHT TO THAT FONE AS THE
ASSHOLE WHO PUT THE LOCK ON IT!

NOTE: Obviously, you needed a tiny bit of phreaking knowledge, but if it
doesn't work the first time, try a couple more times. If it still doesn't
work, I've got some swamp land I'd like to sell ya! (DUH!)


The Safety Chain Lock
---------------------

A commonly used lock is the safety chain. Y'know, the one that you
slide into the little slot along the back of your door. Well I, as well as
other people have come to the conclusion that this type of lock protects
you and your valuables from intruders/burglers about as much as tin foil
does! While the simple method of breaking through such a pitiful barrier is
to take your shoulder AND SMASH INTO THE DOOR AS HARD AS YOU CAN works
well, so do bolt cutters. I will try to explain to you how to get past one
of these locks quietly. After all, isn't the whole idea of lockpicking to
be as quiet as is humanly possible?
First, you will need about 4 tacks, some elastic bands, and some
common sense.
To defeat a safety chain lock where the door is unlocked but the chain
prevents you from stealing some valuables, simply take an rubber band and
somehow tie or stretch one end of the band over the knob end of the safety
chain. By knob end I mean the end you would take (if you were on the other
side of the door) and slide into the slot on the back of the door.
Next, take the other end of the rubber band and a thumb tack and,
reaching around the back or the door as far as you can, stick the thumb
tack into the back of the door as hard as you can with the rubber band
rapped around or somehow affixed to the tack. Then slowly close the door.
The rubber band on the back will pull the chain out of the slot for you.
You can then open the door, remove the tack, and steal stuff. (Fig. 1)


FIG-1
-----
What the setup will look like for inside:
----------------------------------------

-------------------------- -----------------------------
- -
- -
============ - -
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ - - {{{{
~+ = ()~oooooooooooooooooooo {
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ - - {{{{
============ - -
- -
(DOOR) - - (WALL)
- -
-------------------------- -----------------------------

LEGEND
------
" - " Border of wall/door
" ~ " Elastic Band
" o " Link of Safey Lock
" + " Tack
" = " Slot For Knob of Safety Chain
" { " Base of Chain
" () " Knob Part of Safety Chain

---------------------------------------------------------------------------


Well, so far, most of what you have been reading has been things that I
have picked up in a few scattered philes and people. Now I will begin the
actual tutorial. This includes descriptions of all kinds of locks, most
still being used today from the locks on your screen door, to the lock on
your car.


----------
- PART 1 - BASIC RULES AND PRINCIPLES
----------

The main key in bypassing any lock, is to know how the lock works and
its design. For example. Many banks use what is called a partition lock
to lock a swinging door.


---------------------
- -
- === -
- Knob --> = = - Partition Lock
- === -
- -
--------------------

When an irate customer comes barging into the bank wanting attention
NOW, they may go up to the lock, and begin jerking, pulling, whatever on
the little brass knob expecting to open the gate. But nada happens.. This
is because the know is a phoney.. It is there with only one purpose, to
fool the customer. The real way to get in is to use your finger tips and
push up on the false bottom. This opens the gate. So the "key" here was
to know how the lock worked.. Get it?

General Rule #1 - The Universal Key to any lock is knowledge.
------------------------------------------------------------

General Rule #2 - Don't become keyway oriented to the point of single-
----------------------------------------------------------------------
mindedness.
----------

This second rule deserves some explainnation. It generally translates
to, take the easiest way in/through, which is not always the door lock..
For exaple, don't try picking a difficult door lock when you have a window
that you can go through. Or don't begin to focus on picking the lock
without atleast checking to make sure that the door is actualy LOCKED!!
(Even experts have made that mistake.) Here are a few more rules...

General Rule #3 - Know the locking mechanism perfectly.
------------------------------------------------------

General Rule #4 - Never give up on a practice lock opening.
----------------------------------------------------------

General Rule #5 - When all else fails, CHEAT!
--------------------------------------------

General Rule #6 - Practice on the most difficult BLT and/or lock.
----------------------------------------------------------------

Again, this rules require some explaination. The first is easy. If
you are trying to pick a lock that you think is a simple warded lock but is
actually a two-level tumbler, you will get nowhere fast. So know the
locking mechanism. (#4) If you are trying to open a practice lock, it is
ok to take 5 minute break, but after that, get right back to it. If you
stop now, you may never go back. (#5) This means that if you are totally
stumped by a practice lock, it is perfectly ok to open the lock up and make
sure it turns the way you think it does, etc. But after that, go right
back to attempting to pick the lock. Lastly, it is real impressive to pop
open a disk lock in under 10 seconds, but you'll never learn how to open a
high security cylinder by opening disk locks. So if a lock gives ya major
trouble, keep trying it until you get it..


----------
- PART 2 - WARDED LOCKS
----------

Well, now that we have gone through the basic principles, let's take a
look at the easiest type of lock. The Warded Lock. In warded locks the
key, when inserted and turned, merely engages a locking bolt mounted in the
case and slides it to the locked or unlocked position. In addition, the
key may also lift or disengage a bolt retaining lever or spring; or ot may
act on the bolt via an intermediary lever.


----------- ----
- - <-- enters keyway - - Warded Key
- --------------------- -
------------------------------- - <-- Handle of key
^^^^^^^^ - -
Were the patterns were cut ----


This type of lock offers the bare minimum in amount of security since
almost any object resembling the key will open the lock. The next step up
comes when a locksmith inserts teeth called wards into the keyway or the
turning path of the keybit, the end of the key that is inserted into the
lock. A simple example is to cut the keyway with a tooth extending halfway
into the keyway to block access. The lockmaker then cuts notches in the
key where the ward would block the path. Example:


The Keyway: The Keybit:


-----------
- - -------
- - -------
- ==- -----
- ==- -----
- - -------
- - -------
----------

The keyway would ofcourse not This is the end of the keybit,
be square. That is just for as if it were pointing at you.
clarity sake. The pair of The space in the middle is
"=" represetns the wards. how the keybit bypasses the
They are in obstruction of the wards. It simply passes over
keyway. them.


These locks eventually involed many wards within the lock, resulting
in large but very figurative keys. A locksmith would usually create teh
lock first including all of its wards. Then take a key with a rough out-
line of the wards in the lock already on it. He would then put the "blade"
of the key in the center of a candle flame, coating it with soot. Then the
key was inserted into the lock, turned, and removed. The markes where the
wards were left tiny scratches which were then filed down. Since many
people can do this simple method, security was nil. Eventually the famed
"Skeleton Key" was created around this time for this type of lock which was
usually an "L" shaped tool designed to bypass many different types of
warded locks. You may/will find these types of locks on many 1910-1940
homes, chest, and other assorted apllication where security was either not
highly required or known. Another simple security messure was to have a
small peg at the end of the inside of a keyhole. Thus the pipe key, with
its hallow end was made. I believe that some police handcuffs used
to/still do use this method. Those stupid little locks you see on luggage
etc. are usually of the warded type. The only problem these little suckers
pose is that since their keyways are so small, it makes it difficult to
find a pick to fit into the hole. Careful though, because these locks may
also be lever tumblers which are quite different but look the same from tht
outside. A look at the key can usually help you tell which is which..
Many padlocks are warded as well. But they are usually bottom of the
line models. If the coer can be rotated by inserting a straight tool it is
a warded lock; if not, it is a disc or pin tumbler.

B L T
Begin you BLT (Bypass Lock Technique) on warded locks. When trying to
pick one of these locks, you are trying to 1)avoid all wards 2) contact and
swing the bolt with enough strength without breaking the pick and getting
you ROYALLY pissed off. You would be best to purchase a bunch or skeleton
keys from a manufacturer for these locks.. They usually come in sets of 4-
6 and are your only alturnative to making you own skeleton keys with the
soot method using blanks.. Remember to becareful if you decide to cut your
own keys.. If you use the same key for different locks, you MIGHT end up
putting too many wards into one key thus weakening the key and it could
become very uneffective, especially when it breaks off in the lock.
Now, when picking a lock, you must remember also the treatment to give
a lockpick/skeleton key. DO NOT EVER use the slam-bang method like you
would with your house key. Insert it slowly, feeling for obstructions
until it bottoms, then turn it slowly and feel for the notch cut into the
locking bolt that the key blade must contact. If you hit a solid
resistance, that you have most likey hit a ward, if it is more springy
thenyou have probably hit a bolt retaining spring which must also be
lifted. Be sure to always carry the proper tools.. Otherwise, a simple
warded lock on an old door may stop you dead in your tracks.
Warded padlocks are very common and are the perfect learning and
practicing tool for beginners. You should definatly buy ATLEAST one to
practice with and possibly even to attempt the soot method with.. It is
good to get more than one so that you can see what different brands of
locks look like inside or how to pick another warded padlock once you have
conquered another.
To do this BLT, it is usually required that you pull on the shackle of
the padlock to make a tension. If you are having problems, you might want
to try varying the amount of tension you apply when trying to pick the
lock.

That just about covers warded locks and related BLT. You should begin
practicing on these locks as soon as possible to help boost your ego of
actually opening a lock and not to mention, a thief that gets stopped by a
warded lock looks like a complete moron. 90% of this beginning lesson
should be preparation, getting the right tools, and beginning to understand
locks. The other 10% should be practice.


This completes this section and your education of Basic Principles and
Warded Locks. Look for:

Part 3 - Disc Tumbler Locks
Part 4 - How to Mount Practice Locks
Part 5 - Lever Tumbler Locks

....in the next phile..


If you don't know where to order/get lockpicks from, call the Hellfire
BBS. Tell the Sysop that you heard of his board from this phile.

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