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Criminals Of Radical Extremes Beta Magazine

CORE Magazine - Rel: Nov 12, 1993 - Beta Mag. Issue: 1
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CORE Magazine - Rel: Nov 12, 1993 - Beta Mag. Issue: 1

Well, here it is. The CORE Magazine. We have some good news and some bad news. The good news is that this mag was released. The bad news is that the VGA's that were to be used with the mag did not work on certain systems. Due to this, we have released this text file and called it the CORE Beta Magazine. The official first issue of the CORE Magazine will be released on January 1, 1994. Well, here's some background info on CORE.

CORE, Criminals Of Radical Extremes, is a group that is on a quest to teach anyone who is willing to learn, anything that they want to learn related to computers, hacking, phreaking, carding, anarchy and virii/trojans. We will be releasing a bi-monthly magazine, the first of which you are looking at now, as well as many great h/p utilities. We have noticed for some time now, that the h/p scene is dying and we are here to make it come back to life, bigger and better than it has ever been before. Several months ago, we released the newest version of BlueBeep and we received high praises for it. You can look forward to many more h/p utilities of the same standard that CORE stands for. We are not just some fly-by-night group that's here today and gone tomorrow. We are what many h/p users have wanted all along. A group with the strength of more than 30 members and plenty of distribution sites. CORE is the future of h/p. Well, I won't take anymore of your time. Jump right in and hope you enjoy the magazine.

Steelgrave
-/- CORE President -/-

Table Of Contents

  • Hacking:
    • How to change file permissions - By LudiChrist

  • Phreaking:
    • Free LD without codes - By Spice
    • Electronic Features of the Payphone - By Steelgrave
    • How to Social Engineer Calling/Credit Cards - By BlakNight
    • Discoveries while travelling - By Rebel
    • Residential Social Engineering - By Evil
    • The Facts on the Red Box - By LudiChrist and Steelgrave

  • Carding:
    • Carding Made Easy - By Lord God Xerobe
    • How to use loopholes to repair your credit - By Steelgrave

  • Anarchy:
    • How to beat drug tests - By Comatose
    • How to break into cars with The Club - By Death
    • Police-10 Codes - By Unknown Origin
    • How to have fun with fire - By Spice
    • How to make detonators - By LudiChrist
    • Signs of K-Rad Eliteness - By Splice
    • How to Survive - By Belial

  • Personal Pleasure:
    • How to make genuine looking Fake-ID's - By Steelgrave
    • How to make fake security access cards - By Lord God Xerobe
    • How to steal library books - By Lord God Xerobe and Steelgrave
    • Store Scams - By Belial
    • How to Rip off Bill Changers - By Killer

  • Tid Bits:
    • Dedication
    • Greets
    • Closing Comments

CHANGING FILE PERMISSIONS

By LudiChrist

Changing file permissions on a UNIX system is a very important part of hacking. Here's a little understanding of it.

Each file and directory in the file system has many attributes, in addition to it's name. You can see these by typing ls -l at the prompt.

Example:

	$ pwd 
/home/phred
$ ls -l
total 1
-rw-rw-rw- 1 phred other 138 Aug 5 19:34 README
^^^^^^^^^^
These are the things you have to worry about.

There are 3 types of file permissions, r (read) w (write) and x (execute).
The output -rwx--r--r-- means that the owner of the file can read, write, and execute it. Understand? Good.

Now, on to the changing part. You can change the file permissions of a file you own using the chmod command.

Something like this...

$ ls -l stuff   (stuff being the name of the file) 
-rw-rw-rw- 1 phred other 227 Aug 4 20:33 stuff
$ chmod -w stuff
$ ls -l stuff
-r--r--r-- 1 phred other 227 Aug 4 20:33 stuff
$

The chmod command can be used with + or - arguments, used to add or subtract the given permission.

I planned on writing a snappy little ending for this article, but then decided not to.

A -/- CORE -/- InfoText

FREE LD WITHOUT USING CODES

By SPiCE

If you want to make free calls, but think codes are too risky, you can try this method. Go to someone's house at night with a flashlight and touch-tone phone. Find the phone box and open it with a screwdriver. Inside you'll see a little paper with wiring instructions and the persons number (write it down), and a phone jack. If the phone number is not written, follow the next step and dial 958, ANAC, for those of you that don't know. Now plug your phone into the jack (I've seen a few houses were the jack is not in the phone box but is in plain sight on the side of the house) and dial 72 and the # button. When you get another dial tone, enter the number of your favorite phreak/hack BBS (Remember to dial the 1 first). Wait till it answers, then hang up. Now all of the person's calls are forwarded to the BBS. Go home and call the persons number (did you remember to write it down?) and the BBS will answer (Call is billed to the person). This doesn't last long, though, because people will realize something is wrong. (Even though they can't listen to your calls).

Catch you later!!!

A -/- CORE -/- InfoText

ELECTRONIC FEATURES OF THE PAYPHONE

By Steelgrave

Several people have recently asked me about the electronic features of the payphone. I realized that many others are interested in this topic as well, hence forth this article.

Beginning a couple of years ago, the majority of private and telco payphones have become more and more sophisticated. The payphones that were manufactured starting in mid-1989 were built with slots to allow future expandability. These "smart boards" or "retrofit kits" added a whole new dimension to payphone features.

The following is a list, including a description, of the major electronic features of payphones.

  • Coin box accounting: keeps detailed logs of coin and credit card usage on a daily basis. Alerts owner when coin box is out too long or being tampered with.
  • Call management information systems: a 300bps modem calls owner and reports payphone usage and other vital statistics.
  • Remote diagnostics systems: a 300bps modem calls the owner and reports equipment failures and sometimes even the specific part. This feature saves money by allowing service personnel to make only one trip.
  • Visual displays: LCD screen displays instructions on how to use the phone as well as available services.
  • Voice messaging synthesis: pre-recorded voice provides both central office and operator functions.
  • Call restriction programs: allow owner to block specified numbers and prefixes. Generally 1-900 and 976 numbers.
  • Call timing programs: allow owner to limit the length of calls and warn users of additional charges.
  • Voice store and forward: allows a user who gets a no-answer or busy signal to leave a recorded message. The payphone keeps dialing until the message is played.
  • Credit card readers: slide scan card reader with multiple-card capabilities.
  • Cash/debit card features
  • Volume control: allows user to adjust handset receiver volume.

Well, those are the major features. And that's it for this text.

A -/- CORE -/- InfoText

HOW TO SOCIAL ENGINEER CALLING AND CREDIT CARDS

By BlakNight

This is NOT another lame idea on calling someone up and saying, "I'm from the bank, give me your credit card." Although that may work, what I'll present is an easy method that WORKS. You can easily get calling cards from people, and sometimes if you're lucky, credit cards. I'll try to keep this short, but I'll be as explicative as possible. The only items you need for this are a phone book, a telephone, and most importantly, an answering machine/tape recorder that is hooked up directly to the phone line. Anyway, here is a step-by-step method of getting cards from people. For best results, use the script given here and only slightly modify it, if needed.

1. Hook up your tape recorder/answering machine to the phone line and get ready to record.

2. Dial 10288 + 0 + any ACN, wait a few seconds, and hit record on your recording device.

3. Record the "BONG....AT&T", stop the recorder, and hang up the phone.

4. Find someone in the phone book with a full first name listed. For example, don't call M. Davis, but Mark Davis is OK.

5. Call that person and follow the script: (AT&T = you, Joe = called person). It's important that you follow the script naturally, (don't sound like you're reading it) and put in a lot of "Sir's and "Ma'am"s.

Joe: Hello?

AT&T: (Play the "BONG AT&T" over the phone line)

AT&T: Yes, this is the AT&T operator...collect call for Joe.

Joe: Yes, this is he....who's this call from?

AT&T: Sir, the caller is using our automatic collect call service, and I'm unable to see who it's from, but Sir, I can tell you that they are calling from a payphone in the XXX area code. (Fill in the X's)

Case 1: Joe: Umm....no, I don't want to.....bye....(In this case hang up and try someone else)

Case 2: Joe: Ok, I'll accept the charges.


AT&T: Ok Sir, please hold. (Now go on mute, or if you don't have mute type something on the keyboard of your computer....wait a few seconds and come back on) Sir, do you have a collect call block on your line?

Joe: What the fuck are you talking about?

AT&T: Sir, a block on your line that does not allow incoming collect calls?

Joe: No, not that I know of....

AT&T: Ok Sir, please hold again...(Go on mute or type some more) Sir? Yes, it appears that I can't bill to this line....do you have another line I could bill the call to?

Case 1: Joe: Yes.....it's XXX-XXXX.
AT&T: Ok, please hold....(type some more) Sir, I'm unable to bill to your other line......

Case 2: Joe: No, this is my only line....
AT&T: Ok, Sir....I'm unable to bill to this line....

AT&T: Do you have a calling card I can bill the call to?

Case 1: Joe: Yes, hold on......it's ###### etc...
AT&T: Ok, thank you sir, please hold (Wait a few seconds, then hang up....congratulations! You now have a virgin calling card)

Case 2: Joe: No, I use MCI.
AT&T: Sir? Yes, it's OK....we can bill to any calling card.
Joe: Oh, ok...then it's ###### etc....
AT&T: Ok, thank you sir, please hold (Wait a few seconds, then hang up....congratulations! You now have a virgin calling card)

Case 3: Joe: No, I don't have any calling cards.
AT&T: OK, Sir, do you have a major credit card (aha!) that I could bill to?
Joe: Yes, is an AMEX Gold ok?
AT&T: Yes, that will be fine....
Joe: Ok, it's XXXX XXXX XXXX etc... exp: xx/xx
AT&T: Ok, thank you sir, please hold (Wait a few seconds, then hang up....congratulations! You now have a virgin calling card)

Case 4: Joe: No, I don't have any credit cards either....
AT&T: Ok Sir, well, I'm unable to bill the call to you, but I can give you the number to the payphone, it's 970-3825 (F-U-C-K) Thank you for using AT&T....

Well, that concludes this article. If you're an idiot and say something like, "huh...wait.....ok.....I'm supposed to say I can't bill you---uh, the --uh call.....*giggle* gimme a credit-no, that's later, uh, calling card....and I'll -uh- bill you that way....hehe..... *giggle*", that just won't work. If you crack under pressure, or say "uh" a lot, don't waste your time....If you sound old enough and sound convincing, anyone will buy this. Enjoy the cards!!! Credit for ideas presented here also goes to CutThroat of WA and SubZero of TX.

A -/-CORE-/- InfoText

Discoveries While Travelling

By Rebel

If you want to make free local and long distance calls while staying at a hotel, just get an outside line from your room phone and dial "0" (for local) or "10xxx" for carrier access. Say you are having trouble dialing the phone number you wish. When they ask your room number, say the room next door, or make one up. They won't know the difference. When I was staying in a hotel in Salt Lake City, Utah, I dialed AT&T and they didn't even ask for my room number. That was probably because the phone number was not identified as a hotel phone. Phone numbers are identified by the "class of service" they are in, such as COCOT, regular payphone, hotel room, charge-a-call phone, cellular phone, etc. Sometimes, a particular phone is not identified properly and you can circumvent the system. For example, I was at a rest stop in Idaho and there was a charge a phone, a payphone that doesn't use coins and it was not identified as a charge-a-call to the operator, so when I tried to bill a call to a third number, it put the call through as if it was a regular phone. I was able to make free long distance call and charge them to any number.

You really can't blame hackers and phone phreaks for what they do sometimes. I use red boxes, PBX's and try to manipulate the phone system because in some places the local phone company is a rip off. Did you know that US West charges $.25 for local information and in parts of Wyoming, payphones charge $.35 for a local call.

I also happened to notice that in certain parts of Nebraska when you place a "0+" call, the recording says, "Your local Phone Company", before it gives you a bong tone. If you go into rural areas where the local phone company will be GTE. You may be able to do more with tones, such as blue box and red box, than with most state phone companies. GTE is not as up-to-date as the other local phone companies. For example, in Southern New Mexico, there is a GTE phone with a #1 crossbar, so when you placed a long distance call, you heard Multi-Frequency blue box tones.

If you are ever in need of making a quick call anywhere, just hop on over to your local Chemical Bank. Go to the bank during normal business hours and look for a grey desk phone with a sign that should read something along the lines of, "Customer Service Phone", or "Service Line." You can pick up the phone and call anywhere you want. It is a normal phone line. Every Chemical Bank has this type of phone. If someone comes over and tells you that it is not for personal use, just hang up and go to another Chemical Bank. You are supposed to dial their Customer Service Center at 935-9935, but you can call any number with the phone. On some phones, you can even dial international, just dial any carrier access code (10xxx) then the phone number. None of the phones are hooked up to a PBX, so you can just dial direct. There is only one catch. You can only do this during operating bank hours.

I hope you enjoyed this article. It is a collection of some of the more interesting flaws I have found in phone systems, while I was travelling.

A -/- CORE -/- InfoText

Residential Social Engineering In a Nutshell

By Evil

There are many definitions and forms of social engineering. In this text I will describe residential social engineering. In order to be a social engineer you must have a shitload of practice. The term "practice makes perfect" may indeed be a cliche, but in this case it stands true. Residential social engineering can be fine tuned to an art. You make the person on the other line so confused and so worried and yet they must have complete trust in you. It's not bad to have a rough outline in front of you in case you get stuck. DON'T STUTTER! If you don't know what to say, shut up. You may want to have a "supervisor" on the line with you for backup in case you get stuck or the person on the other line requests to speak to a supervisor. If you have an 800 loop, you're completely set. Some people may want to call you back at the main office. In that case you give them your 800 loop and wait for them on the other side, or better yet have someone else on the other side. But I'm writing this text assuming that you don't have an 800 loop seeing as they are hard to come by. Anyway, if you are calling later then 10pm you MUST apologize for disturbing the person at such a late hour (even though for you it may not be so late). If you are not calling locally, remember to compensate for the time difference. Another thing is, don't get the phone companies fucked up. Don't call someone in Alaska and say that this is Southwestern Bell because they'll just laugh and hang up in your face. Have everything planned out, and remember that AT&T isn't always the best choice. You must put pressure on the person by saying that it's an emergency, yet you must stay calm and make them confused enough so they would be willing to give you their card number.

I can recall once I called this guy and he gave me his AT&T Visa card instead of his phone card. I didn't stop him, I let him tell me all the info on the visa card and his expiration date and then I went on and told him I was talking about a phone card, and I got his phone card off of him too. People are dumber then you think. They almost always trust a friendly voice. Remember, on every phone card bill a warning similar to this one appears:
"REMEMBER, NEVER GIVE OUT YOUR CARD NUMBER TO ANYONE, IF WE NEED TO CONTACT YOU, WE ALREADY HAVE YOUR NUMBER."

Of course most people ignore that message. Regardless, if they bring it up, remind them that this is an emergency and say that you only need the first four digits (Sprint) or the last four digits (AT&T + MCI) of their card, the other seven numbers are their phone number, but don't tell them that. Here, this is an actual quote from one of my residential social engineering escapades:

Redneck: Well it says right here on my bill that you already know my card number.

Me: Yes sir, we do. I only need the last four numbers of your card in order to verify that you are indeed Joseph B. D'George.

Redneck: Oh I see, a security type thing right?

Me: Yes, exactly sir.

Redneck: Welp, let me see here, the last four numbers are 4166.

Me: Thank you sir, we are removing the charges off of your phone bill as we speak. Thank you for your cooperation and have a good night.

Redneck: Yeah, thanks.

You see how easy it is? All you have to do is remain confident and sound professional and courteous. Regardless of whether you get the card number or not, never tell them it's a scam.

That's about all there is to know. Just remember, be nice.
PEACE <hack> LOVE <phreak> HARMONY <card> DRUGS

A -/- CORE -/- InfoText

The Facts on the Red Box

By LudiChrist and Steelgrave

There has been a lot of talk on the nets lately about how to make a red box, which crystal is the best, how they are used and so on. This little text should clear up some of the confusion.

The optimum crystal for a red box is 6.49Mhz, not 6.5536. The reason the 6.5536 crystal was used is because it was the closest and most readily available crystal to the real tone. Since a 6.49 crystal has to be custom made, get a 6.500Mhz crystal.

The tones used for a red box *are* nickel tones, but all that happens when you drop a real quarter in is it stacks 5 nickels on top of each other. In the old days, when there were the three slot payphones, there were different tones for nickel, dime and quarter. They sounded more like bongs than beeps. You can still hear these tones in some old movies, when someone uses a fortress. Anyway, back to the red box. Before Bell found out that you could record the beeps and play them back into the receiver, they were not muted. Anyone with a microcassette recorder and half a brain could have had their own red box. Some of you, that aren't too young, probably remember the beepbeepbeepbeepbeep that you heard when you dropped the quarter. These are the tones you need to make.

A simple red box is made by getting a hold of a Radio Shack 33 Number Memory Tone Dialer, Model No. 43-141. Your local RS doesn't have one? No shit. They stopped making them in early 1993. There are still a few running around, but they are getting scarce. RS promises to have a new one out soon. There have been rumors that the new model will have a LCD display at the top and will be unmodifiable. I highly doubt that, but you never know what Radio Shack might come up with.

Ok, open the back of your dialer by removing the screws above the speaker, and the screws behind the battery cover. Now pop open the back. Be careful not to disconnect the speaker wire. You should now be looking at the PCB (printed circuit board). Above the big black dot, and to the right of the yellow capacitor, is the crystal you have to remove. It is the silver cylinder with the numbers 3.579 imprinted on it. Get a soldering iron, heat it up and *carefully* remove the crystal. There is some glue on it, too, just melt that off. Solder the new crystal in the same place as the old one. Reassemble the box, place the batteries in, and turn it on. Follow the list of instructions exactly.

  1. Set the Dial/Store switch to Store.
  2. Turn on the dialer.
  3. Press the memory key.
  4. Press the * key 5 times.
  5. Press the P1 key.
  6. Press the memory key.
  7. Repeat steps 1-6 for keys P2 and P3.
  8. For P2, program $1.00, and P3, program $1.25.
  9. Set the Dial/Store switch to Dial.

When programming buttons P2 and P3, separate every 5 *'s (every quarter) with the 3 key. For example, P2 would be like this: Memory, 5 *'s, 3, 5 *'s, 3, 5 *'s, 3, 5 *'s, Memory, P2. And P3 would be: Memory 5 *'s, 3, 5 *'s, 3, 5 *'s, 3, 5 *'s, 3, 5 *'s, Memory, P3. You have now finished making your very own Red Box.

Now come the instructions on how to use the Red Box. Ok, go to any Bell payphone and dial the following:

  1. 10288
  2. 1 + Area Code + Number

Now there will be a recording telling you to deposit $X.XX amount of money. Now, whip out you Red Box and place the speaker of the box to the mouthpiece of the phone. Place the correct amount of money by pressing the P buttons. Remember, P1 is $ .25, P2 is $1.00 and P3 is $1.25. The call will now go through.

You do not have to use a Bell payphone. Any payphone that lets the user switch over to AT&T as a carrier will work. You have now successfully placed your first Red Box call. Go out and have a ball.

A -/- CORE -/- InfoText

CREDIT FRAUD MADE EASY

By The Lord God Xerobe

Sure there are a lot of Credit Carding files, but they're all bullshit. I will be explaining from start to finish, how credit fraud is REALLY done.

First you must get the credit card; not difficult. Sometimes hacking CBI will work best, but if you are not into hacking, having a job can be VERY helpful. Or you can try your luck at trashing. Well, the method of obtaining the card is up to you.

Once you have the number you will also need the exp. date, the name AS IT appears on the credit card, the billing address, and the billing phone number. Then, I would suggest that you memorize all information and think of a good reason for why you are getting what you are getting. If you were to get a Hard Drive, and they ask why you are getting such a large HD say it is because you are doing a graphics project, and if they ask why overnight delivery, tis because the project is do Monday. If you don't want to memorize the information, you can write it down on a piece of paper and read from that when you place the order. When you call, make sure to sound like a professional demanding the stuff. Let them know who's the boss. But I have found that there is a better way. Call with a high voice (like a pre-pubescent boy) and like you are fairly rich, but not incredibly. Also, do NOT ask for a certain product. For example, if you want a HD, find out how much the HD you want is. When you place the order, tell them that you want the biggest hard drive you can get for the amount of whatever the hard drive you want costs. Then, if they try to sell you something smaller, say that is too small and ask if there is anything bigger. And sometimes, ask them to hold on and half cover the mouth piece, then have a fake conversation with your father (or mother). Say that you are fairly computer literate and your father is not much better. For other types of equipment, just do the same just modify the computer part.

After they get all the information, tell them that you want the shipment sent to your mother's house instead of your father's. An even better option, is to tell them that you would like to have it shipped to your workplace. Give them the address of the drop-off site.

To find a good drop-off site, look for houses where the owners or tenants have gone on vacation or a house that is vacant. Make sure that the company you use delivers with Federal Express, because if no one is home when they come, they will leave the package, as long as there is a note on the door with the credit card holder's signature. So all you do is order overnight, and the next day, early in the morning go to the drop-off and leave a note on the door saying some along the following lines:

	To FedEx Man, 
No one is currently home to receive the delivery.
Would you kindly leave the package at the door
because no one will be home till late night. Thank
You for your cooperation.
(Signature of card holder)
(Print card holder's name)

Some places will voice verify the order. For this, you have two options. Your first option is to give the company a line that has been busied out. For example, most prefixes with 9970 as the last four digits will give a continuous busy signal. Your other option is to hack out a direct dial VMB. If you don't know how to do this, then download a file off a H/P/A/C/T/V board. Now, record a message on the VMB, and make it sound like an answering machine. You can say something along the following lines:

"Hello, you have reached CORE Enterprises. Sorry, no one is here to take your call, but if you would kindly leave your name, number and a brief message, a representative will get back to you shortly. Please speak clearly, at the tone. Thank You."

When they call to verify the order, they will believe the order is legit, because as you told the company, you wanted the order shipped to your workplace. Now they actually believe that you work for the company and will ship the order without any doubts.

When picking companies, look for low budget ads in black and white and many items with small writing. These companies are ideal because they care more about getting their money than anything else. The trick then, is to convince the sales person that it is imperative that you not only get the item, but that it comes when you want it, overnight. Also, do NOT order too much or more than once on the same card. Getting greedy is how people get caught.

Listed below are a couple of ways people can get caught.

  1. If the drop-off site is bad, or some genius decided to use his/her own house.
  2. If the CBI/TRW check fails. The cops might be called in to investigate. Highly, highly doubted, since they have better things to do.
  3. If some genius places the order from his/her home. Remember, 800 numbers have ANI.
  4. If some genius gives his real phone number.

Well, that's it. Hint: When ordering, stay calm and remember, the customer is always right!!!

A -/-CORE-/- InfoText

REPAIRING YOUR CREDIT

By Steelgrave

It seems that as everyday passes, credit bureaus become more and more irresponsible. These companies were created to make money by selling people's information. The three major bureaus are TRW, CBI (also known as Equifax) and Trans Union. [From here on, the credit bureaus will be referred to simply as "cb's".] The least these companies could do would be to keep the information as accurate as possible. But no, they don't give two shits about you. If the cb's are going to make money, and lots of it, by selling incorrect information about you, why not use the most powerful weapon available to you.
The LAW.

First of all, get a copy of your credit report. You can get one by writing to the correct address listed at the end of this article. Next, look over the report very carefully and write down every objectionable item you find on it. Now, think of as many relevant questions as you can, for each item. Write one letter per negative item, to the cb's. Explain the problem and ask them all the questions you thought of before. Don't send ten questions for one item, because they will get suspicious. Writing five questions or so for each item will suffice. Keep a very accurate log of letter mailings and recievings. The Fair Credit Reporting Act requires that credit reporting agencies respond to your questions within a reasonable time, either twenty-two working days or thirty calender days. If they don't answer your question(s) within that time, they are required by law to remove the disputed item from you report. At one time or another, the cb's will miss a deadline and your credit will be repaired. Always reply to the letters they send you. Demand that they write you a personal letter and that they verify and/or substantiate the information they have placed on your file. If the cb's still refuse to take the disputed item off your credit report, you get tough. Write to the Federal Trade Commission at the addresses listed below. Complain about the slow response of the credit reporting agency to your questions. In most cases, this step will solve the problem. As a last resort, you are allowed to write between 25-100 words on your credit report to explain your side of the story.

Several things to remember:

  • Don't lie. Until you challenge the accuracy of the information in your file, the responsibility for the information is yours. Once you question the information, the law states that the cb's must substantiate what they have placed on your report. Essentially, the burden of proof is theirs. If you lie, it will be found out.
  • When thinking of questions, don't get petty. If the cb's can prove that the questions you are asking are frivolous, they aren't required to take the damaging information off you report.

Important Addresses

		Equifax Credit Information Services 
Box 740241
Atlanta, GA 30374-0421
(800)685-1111
$3 in Maine and Montana. $5 in Maryland.
$10 in Massachusetts. Free in Vermont.
$8 in all other states.

TRW Consumer Complimentary Report
Box 2350
Chatsworth, CA 91313-2350
(214)235-1200
This is the address to use if you have NOT been
denied credit in the past sixty days.

TRW Consumer Assistance Center
Box 749029
Dallas, TX 75374
(214)235-1200
This is the address to use if you HAVE been
denied credit in the past sixty days.

Trans Union Corp.
Box 7000
North Olmsted, OH 44070
(216)779-2378
Free, if you have been denied credit in the past
sixty days. Otherwise, $15.


Main Office:
Federal Trade Commission
Washington, DC 20580

Regional Offices:
1718 Peachtree Street, NW
Atlanta, Georgia 30367
(404)347-4836

10 Causeway Street
Boston, Massachusetts 02114
(617)565-7240

55 East Monroe Street
Chicago, Illinois 60603
(312)353-4423

668 Euclid Avenue, Suite 520-A
Cleveland, Ohio 44114
(216)522-4207

100 N. Central Expressway, Suite 500
Dallas, Texas 75201
(214)767-7050

1405 Curtis Street
Denver, Colorado 80202
(303)844-2271

11000 Wilshire Boulevard
Los Angeles, California 90024
(213)209-7890

26 Federal Plaza
New York, New York 10278
(212)264-1207

901 market Street, Suite 570
San Francisco, California 94103
(415)556-1270

915 Second Avenue, Room 2806
Seattle, Washington 98174
(206)442-4655

That's all for now!!!

A -/- CORE -/- InfoText

MEET AND BEAT THE DRUG TESTS

By Comatose

Sometime in your life, your place of employment may require you to take a drug test. If you are required to do such a thing, the only way you can be certain you will not show up positive is not to do drugs for two months or so before the test. The amount of time you'll have to stay off drugs before the test varies of course. The table below shows approximately how long each drug will remain in your body. Of course, the period of time varies depending on many factors -- The quantity and concentration of the drug, and your body weight play major roles.

	  COMPOUND                APPROX.  RETENTION 
Amphetamines 20-25 days
Barbiturates 10-14 days
Cocaine 2-4 days
Ethyl Alcohol 1-2 days
LSD 20-40 days
Marijuana 14-30 days
Methaqualone 14-21 days
Opiates 10-14 days
Phencyclidine (PCP) 10-14 days

If you are forced to take a drug test, you may not be given enough time to prepare for it, so you may be in need of a more immediate solution. The methods that I provide do work, but they are not as certain or as foolproof as simple abstinence. I stress there is no guarantee that any of these will work.

First, if you are a good social engineer, here's a way to avoid losing your job. Before you take the test, you'll be asked to sign a urinalysis consent form. They'll ask you to list any drugs you've taken in the past week. Cross out week and write in month instead. When the tester screams at you, tell him you read an article that said a cough medicine you took several weeks ago might affect the test. Listed below are the medicinal drugs that will yield the same results as the narcotics in the left column.

	DRUG/METABOLITE          CROSS-REACTIVE 
Amphetamine OTC cold medicines, such as Nyquil,
Vicks Nasal Spray, Sudafed,
Neosynephren.
Barbiturates Rarely prescribed compounds
Cannaboids Ibuprofen (Advil, Nuprin, Motrin, Mydol)
Cocaine Amoxicillin (unconfirmed)
Methaqualone None reported to date
Morphine Codeine (in any prescription form)
Poppy seeds
Doxylamine OTC antihistamines and sleeping pills
Phencyclidine (PCP) Dextromethororphan (found in some
prescription cough medicines)
Diazepam (Valium)
LSD None reported to date

If you are alone, then you are in luck -- you can dilute your specimen with water to lessen the amount of illegal substance in your urine. Add 1/3 to 1/2 parts water, but be careful not to make your sample suspiciously light colored. If you want to lessen the chance of being suspected of having diluted your specimen, take vitamin c capsules before the test. This will make your urine a darker yellow, and increase the odor, so that when you dilute it, it should look as it usually does.

If you are accompanied into the bathroom by an observer, a little slight of hand is necessary. First, tell the observer you can't urinate with someone watching. There are people like this, and if you are insistent, you can most likely be afforded a little more privacy. Providing you're not being directly watched, with a little practice you can replace your urine with the clean stuff. First, obviously, you need some clean urine -- get it from anywhere you want, but it must be real, clean, human urine -- don't try to substitute animal urine or food coloring/water, it's easy to detect.

Now you'll need something to contain your urine in. Go to your local drug store, and buy a drainage bag for ambulance patients. They are low cost, expect to pay about $5 for one. They come in different sizes, and as I hear it, the large one works best, because since it's larger, it can be distributed more evenly across your abdomen. Take off the cap and add a piece of rubber tubing so that you can fill it more easily.

As the test approaches, fill the bag with clean urine, squeeze out the air, and seal it. Make sure that the bag and urine inside are room temperature -- otherwise it'll be obvious that it's a substitute, but be sure it doesn't stay at room temperature longer than eighteen hours -- it can't withstand the prolonged exposure to heat.

Now you will need to put on the bag. Secure the bag to your abdomen, making sure that as much of your skin as possible touches the latex, so that the bag will lie flat and be easy to conceal. The most reliable way to do this is with tape, but you could also try doing this with an elastic strap. Now place the tube protruding from the bag by your crotch. Make sure the tube and the on/off cap are conveniently located, but not in sight. When it comes time to urinate, discreetly take off the cap, or turn on the release valve. The urine from the bag will empty into the jar, and the tester won't be able to tell the difference. When the bag is empty, zip up, and hand over the jar. If all goes well, you will have beaten the urine test.

Note: The best book one can read on this subject is most certainly "Steal this Urine Test" by Abbie Hoffman, which contains most of the information contained in this file, as well as more information covering deeper issues surrounding drug testing, such as How Legal drug testing really is. For anyone interested in further information on this subject, this would most certainly be the next thing to read.

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HOW TO BREAK INTO CARS THAT USE THE CLUB

By Death

How many times do you find yourself thinking of how you can break into a car with "THE CLUB" in use? Well, this article will tell you how, so you don't fry your brain thinking about it. For those of you that don't know what THE CLUB is, it is a metal bar with a lock on it that fits on the steering wheel of a car so that thieves can't drive properly. There are two methods that I will discuss.

OK, first you have to break into a car. Find another text for breaking into a car. Now that you have gotten into the car, you see THE CLUB and think this is a big disadvantage. Well, not really. All you need is a hacksaw. Use the hacksaw to cut the parts where THE CLUB connects to the steering wheel. That's right, cut the steering wheel and THE CLUB is useless.

The second method requires the use of Freon. Freon is a coolant that can be found in refrigerators, air conditioners and anything else that needs to be kept cool. You can buy freon at a hardware store. Not all stores sell it, so look around. You can also take freon from an old refrigerator. Find an old refrigerator and look behind it. Trace the coil down to the bottom of the refrigerator. You should see a canister. Clip off both ends of the cylinders. BE SURE THAT WHEN YOU CLIP OFF THE ENDS, IT IS SEALED ON BOTH SIDES. Now you take the canister with the freon gas to the car. You then take the freon and release it onto the metal parts of THE CLUB. After a few seconds, take a hammer or a wrench and strike the area where you put the freon. It will break apart.

Well, there you go.. as simple as that. I warn you though, if you try this, be prepared for anything. ENJOY!!!!

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N.Y.C. POLICE DEPARTMENT RADIO AND INCIDENT CODE SIGNALS

Unknown Origin

  • Instructions:
    • 10-01 Call your command
    • 10-02 Report to your command
    • 10-03 Call Dispatcher by telephone
    • 10-04 Acknowledgment
    • 10-05 Repeat message
    • 10-06 Stand by
    • 10-07 Verify Address

  • Possible Crimes:
    • 10-10 Investigate (prowler, suspicious person/vehicle, shots fired, burglar alarm, etc.)
    • 10-11 Bank or hold up alarm (specify)
    • 10-12 Pick-up case (location, nature of incident)
    • 10-13 ASSIST POLICE OFFICER
    • 10-14 (License No.) Occupied & suspicious location. Verify if stolen.
    • 10-15 (License No.)Verify if vehicle is stolen (occupied or not)
    • 10-16 Vehicle is reported stolen (alarm no.)
    • 10-17 Vehicle is not reported stolen
    • 10-18 Organized Crime Vehicle
    • 10-19 Other possible crimes (specify)

  • Crimes in the Past:
    • 10-20 Robbery (past)
    • 10-21 Burglary (past)
    • 10-22 Larceny (past) (specify; auto, from person/other)
    • 10-23 Report explosive (suspected, device or scare) (past)
    • 10-24 Assault (past)
    • 10-29 Other crime in past (specify)

  • Crimes in Progress:
    • 10-30 Robbery in progress
    • 10-31 Burglary in progress
    • 10-32 Larceny in progress (specify; auto, from person/other)
    • 10-33 Report of explosive (suspected, device or scare)
    • 10-34 Assault in progress
    • 10-39 Other crime in progress (specify)

  • Non-Crime Incidents:
    • 10-50 Disorderly (person(s)/group)
    • 10-51 Roving Band (specify direction of travel & number in group)
    • 10-52 Noise or dispute (specify)
    • 10-53 Street accident
    • 10-54 Ambulance case (specify type)
    • 10-55 Ambulance case (R.M.P. not required)
    • 10-56 Ambulance may be needed
    • 10-57 Ambulance -2nd call- verify
    • 10-58 Assist ambulance (specify type of assist)
    • 10-59 Alarm of fire
    • 10-60 Precinct assignment (available)
    • 10-61 Precinct assignment (not available)
    • 10-62 Out of Service (Reason)
      • A Arrest
      • C C.O. Precinct
      • D Zone
      • E Engine (Mech.)
      • F Flat Tire
      • G Gas
      • H Hospital
      • I Investigation
      • M Mail
      • P Precinct Station
      • R Radio Repair
      • S Speedometer
      • T Taxi Checkpoint
      • W Female in Auto
      • X School or Church Crossing
      • Y Park/Walk/Talk
      • Z Off Tour

    • 10-62 Out of Service (authority) - In addition to reason, the following authority codes must also be given:
      • 1 Precinct Commander
      • 2 Operation Lt.
      • 3 Patrol Sgt.
      • 4 Station House Officer
      • 5 Self Initiated

    • 10-63 Out of service (meal)
    • 10-64 Entering premises License. by S.L.A. (specify address)
    • 10-65 Utility trouble (specify nature, if emergency responding or not)
    • 10-66 Unusual incident (specify; aircraft crash, building collapse,etc.)
    • 10-67 Traffic or parking condition (specify)
    • 10-68 See complaint re: (specify)
    • 10-69 Other non-crime incident (specify)

  • Interim Assignment Status:
    • 10-80 Referred to Unit (specify)
      • B Referred to Building
      • C Referred to Criminal Court
      • D Referred to Detectives
      • F Referred to Family Court
      • H Referred to Housing
      • L Referred to Civil Court
      • Q Other
      • T Referred to Transit

    • 10-81 Person(s) to station house
      • I investigate
      • A Arrest

    • 10-82 Aided to Hospital (name of hospital)
    • 10-83 D.O.A. (natural/other)
    • 10-84 Fire report (type of structure, location, extent)
    • 10-85 Need additional unit (specify type and reason) S Supervisor
    • 10-86 Female (time in vehicle/out of vehicle)
    • 10-87 Cancel (specify unneeded service)
    • 10-88 Arrived at scene
    • 10-89 Other assignment status (specify)

  • Final Dispositions (Available): These Signal Codes Stop Service Time
    • 10-90 X1 Unfounded-Report written
      • X Unfounded
      • Y Unnecessary
      • Z Gone On Arrival

    • 10-91 No Report required. Referred to:
      • D Detectives
      • F Family Court
      • H Housing
      • L Civil Court
      • Q Other
      • T Transit

    • 10-92 Summons Issued or Served/Arrest
      • A Arrest
      • A2 Arrest/Summons Served
      • M Moving Vehicle Violation
      • P Parking
      • Q Other
      • U Desk appearance ticket

    • 10-93 Report Required
      • C Referred to Criminal Court
      • D Referred to Detectives
      • F Referred to Family Court
      • H Referred to Housing
      • L Referred to Civil Court
      • Q Other
      • T Referred to Transit

    • Report Codes to be used In conjunction With the above:
      • 3 False Alarm
      • 4 Accident
      • 5 Aided
      • 6 Complaint
      • 7 Other

    • 10-94 Handled by previous tour
    • 10-95 Non Crime, Referred to other agency
    • 10-96 Summons Served
    • 10-97 Handled by man on Post
      • H Patient removed to Hospital
      • R Patient refused medical aid
      • E1 EDP (Emotionally Disturbed Person) Admitted to hospital
      • E2 Released from hospital

    • 10-98 Resuming patrol/available. (Not acceptable as a final disposition from last unit on scene)
    • 10-99 Other final disposition (specify)

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HOW TO HAVE FUN WITH GASOLINE

By SPiCE

Ok, there are a few ways you can have fun with gas. I will tell you a couple of my favorites. Ok, first thing you do is go down to your local gas station and buy a gallon of gas. Good, you now have your gas (smile!). Now you have to go buy a 6-pack of Jolt soda and drink it all in 5 mins or less. A very important thing to do when being a pyro. After you are done with the 6-pack you will be very, very hyper! (That's good) Now you take the stuff back to your house. Now, find a 40 oz. bottle to put the gas in. Fill the 40 oz. bottle all the way to about 1 inch before the top. Now go get about 5-10 napkins and twist them until they make a wick. After you have made the wick, find something to cap the bottle with, and cut a hole in the cap just big enough for the wick to fit through. Now you pour gas all over the wick. Make sure that the wick is secure and is at least 1/4 of an inch deep in the gasoline. Now go outside (never light this is your house, unless you want to live on the street) and find somewhere to light this. A perfect example is the dumpster of a bar, because of all the cardboard from the cases of liquor and beer. Ok, find the dumpster and make sure NO ONE is looking. Light the wick. As soon as it is lit, drop it in the dumpster and run for your life!!! In a couple of minutes the dumpster will start to melt and the owner will probably freak out. If you are lucky, and the dumpster is on a hill, you can give it a little push. It'll start rolling down the hill and will be a spectacular sight.

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DETONATORS AND TIMING DEVICES

By LudiChrist

Before you build a bomb you should have an idea of what you want it to do.... Car bomb, anti-personal.... Each of these require a different detonator. Here's a few of the more creative ways to set your explosives off.

Mercury switch: Mercury switches can be bought from any plumbing supply shop or at your local Radio Shack. It looks like a tube with two contacts inside and it is about 1/4 filled with mercury. The two wires coming out are connected to a 9 or 12 volt battery, and that is in turn connected to a model rocket igniter. It's best to tape the switch to the bomb, and do not hook up the wires to the switch until you have the bomb in place. When the bomb is moved while armed, the mercury completes the connection, and the ignite burns, igniting the black powder in the bomb. Effective to use on cars and doors, or anything that will be moved by the intended victim.

Trip Wire: One of my personal favorites... Get a wooden, spring loaded clothes pin, and wrap the tips in copper wire. Open the clip and set a piece of wood or other *non conductive* material in between the tips. Hook up the wires to the tips of a 9 or 12 volt battery, and that is in turn connected to an ignite. Tie a piece of fishing line to the piece in between the tips, and the other end to a tree or something else that won't move too easily. Arm the bomb *after* you have the wire set up. Get away.

Drop Bombs: Make a pipe bomb from a 1 X 9 black threaded nipple, and two 1" end caps. Go to your gun store and tell them you want primers for reloading shotgun shells. Drill a hole in one of the caps the same size of the primer. Super glue the primer into the hole. Fill the bomb with black powder, I recommend FFF powder. Make sure there is no powder on the threads, because the friction will set it off, and blow a large hole in you, and make a big mess in your place. After you have the bomb assembled, tie a streamer to the side of the bomb without the primer in it, take it to a building, get on top, or to a window, and drop it. Don't watch it while it is going down. Remember, if you can see it, it can kill you.

A simple way to make a timer is to get an alarm clock, take it apart, remove the speaker, and hook the wires to the ignite. Set the clock for the time you want it to go off, and get away. Make sure you test it to see if the speaker is pulling enough electricity to set off the ignite. It's usually best to use the plug in kind of clocks instead of a battery operated one, since they usually pull more juice into the speaker.

Well, since its Sunday, and I'm really hung over, I'm going to quit now. Go have fun, and be careful. Don't come crying to me if you blow your damn self up.

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Eliteness: An Epidemic Comparable to AIDs

By Splice

This is an informal treatise upon the subject of Eliteness. If you are offended by any of the facts pointed out in this article, then please forward to me your name, address, phone, and social security number. I want to send you some literature to, clarify my standpoint... yeah...that's the ticket.

K-Rad Eliteness is a disease that unfortunately does not discriminate. It is however a disease that is more predominately found in somewhat upper middle-class homes all around the country, especially those in which children of the ages 11-14 live. Warning signs of Eliteness are as follows:

  1. Absolutely no common sense, intelligence, or clue.
  2. Absolutely no body, facial, or pubic hair.
  3. A voice so high that the telco thinks you're blue boxing when you talk on the phone.
  4. A tendency to speak with an accent upon the letter "s", almost to the point of pronouncing a "z" in it's place.
  5. An instant deficiency in correct English - IE: The word "Cool" becomes KEWL, c00l, k00lish, etc.
  6. Being fooled into thinking that 1+0+ATT+0 is actually a LD code that gets you free calls.
  7. Running a "H/P" board with zero messages, and two files currently online. (Without exception, these files are: THIEF30.ZIP and GUNBELT.ZIP)
  8. You have 400 megs of adult GIFs in addition to the above files.
  9. You just made the big leap up to 24oo bAuD.
  10. Your only programming language is batch.
  11. You run your BBS from 8pm to 8am.
  12. No matter what time it is when someone calls your board, they hear "Hello?...Hey Who is This??..Pick up the phone!!!"
  13. You impose harsh ratios on your board, then two weeks later, you remember you forgot to install DSZ.
  14. You don't run a Forum hack because, "it's too hard to setup".
  15. You have FrontDoor up, but you aren't in any nets.

These are just a few of the warning signs of Eliteness. If you exhibit any of these symptoms, please consult a large caliber handgun immediately.

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How to Survive

By Belial

I've been having a lot of troubles lately. I've recently been kicked out of my house and the same old stuff. Lots of shit has been going down for me, but nothing good. So I figured I'd mention a few simple ways to survive, just in case this happens to you.

Food - Early in the morning, go to stores such as Dairy Barn or whatever, or any store that gets their food delivered fresh. They leave the food right outside most of the time and it is really easy to grab. The bread is nice and fresh, usually still warm... Look for a cardboard box sitting outside a store than check it out. There should be goodies inside. Also go to Pizza parlors and other stores when there about to close, lots of these places will sell you the entire store for about 3 bucks! You can also go garbage picking but that's obvious. That should cover food pretty decently. I learned the Italian bread thing because one night I was out late with this girl and I got the munchies. So I saw the box, then I saw the truck come. It took the box then put it back on a lower shelf. I figured I'd investigate and see what happened. To my happy joy I found 11 loafs of Italian bread and one loaf of Garlic bread!

Transportation - you need to get around, so here are a few ways I hope will help you. You can always walk around and just grab a bike laying around. Usually a good spot is in front of people's homes. They don't think someone will come by and take it, how wrong they are! Even if a bike is chained, it's not that hard. Just look to see how they are chained up. Use common sense, lots of idiots can't chain a fucking bike. You can always use Bolt Cutters, or hammer it etc. You get the idea. If your really sad and want to over do it, you can use CO2 cartridges or freon, but only use these on Kryptonite locks or its not worth the trouble. You can always knock someone off there bike, beat them up etc. A good place to go is church or something where the little bastards go in and get a drink from the water fountain. They come back out and wham no more bike, sucks for them. I learned the church thing because my former friend was robbing the collection box. While I waited for him outside. In 10 mins at least 5 little brats with nice bikes came. I asked them if they had come to pray and they said, "No man, to get a drink." At least the church is good for something. Enough on bikes!! Let's do cars without getting into hot wiring and shit like that. You could always car jack but that's not necessary. Wait outside a Dunkin Donuts, Post office or a Dry Cleaning place. Anywhere where someone might leave their car running and unattended. Easy transportation, just hop in and have fun. Just don't fuck with the car to long. Also don't forget to wipe to get rid of your fingerprints. Take it to a chop-shop, if you know of any for some money. Right there you got a cash flow and a pretty good one. Just try not to be seen. Don't dress or drive in a way that might attract attention, try to blend in. Also, parked cars are good. Always look in them to see if they are open etc. Lots of idiots leave their car open with the keys in them. Look in the glove compartment, ashtray or visor. These are the most common places not including the ignition, where people leave their keys. That covers cars, now for motorcycles and such things like that. Well mostly the same shit as the above..But I don't fuck with bikers.

Cash/Money - That's what you will need most of all. Well that and food anyway, but money brings food among other things. Some of the previously mentioned methods will bring you money. Go door to door and say that you're collecting for charity, etc. Watch the news and if there is a big disaster or something, say your collecting for the Red Cross Disaster Crew. Bullshit people, they are suckers. Many of them will be very polite. Practice in the mirror or something before you go just to make sure you can do it. You can steal those collection plates and cups if they are not chained. Mug a paperboy when he collects money and follow him to learn his route. You could always get a job at a place where they sell food. That way, you can always eat for free or at a good discount. You can always steal from your school, stores, etc. Just don't get caught. Use your head and be smart. That should cover money pretty good!

Clothes - You have to wear something. The easiest way is to wait for the days when people leave clothes out for the poor. Just look on the stoop for a bag that is kind of bulky. No one should care after all, the people are giving the clothes away who cares who gets them! If you want new clothes go to a store. To get sneakers, all you have to do is the old switch-a-roo. Go in with old, come out with new. Just make sure no one sees you take the security tag off!! Put them on and walk out. Remember to take your time, don't rush or you will fuck up! When people hang clothes to dry in there yards grab them off the closeline. Have fun and good luck!

I figured I'd toss in some home made weapons. Some homemade weapons should help, so I'll tell you two that I have made. As for anything better in weapons, your on your own:

Deathstaff - Ever break a leg or sprain an ankle? If so you probably got a pair of crutches. It's not hard to get at least one crutch. Dismantle the crutch. You want the piece with the hard rubber thingy. Then take electrical tape and tape up the crutch so that is totally black and covered in tape. A really good modification is to insert a string or shoelace in the holes and then tape them. You can wrap your hand around the sting then the Crutch! It really comes in handy, trust me. I made this myself and it's kick ass. Most of all, if you get the string, you can build up the tension and really fuck up someone.

Loaded Pipe - All you need is some pipe. You can get your hand around in a nice fist. Cut the length to what ever size you want. Fill the middle with coins or some- thing heavy. Get two pipe caps, one for each end and seal it up. Then wrap some fence wire around it. Something metal works the best. Then tape it nicely with electrical tape. This gives you a really good grip. You can make it fit your hand. What ever you want to do.

Sleep/Live - If your out of your house, you need a place to at least sleep. If you can't afford to stay anywhere and no one will take you in, I hope what I can think of will help you. You can break into cars and sleep, kind of risky though. Sleep on the park benches. Break into houses where the people are on vacation. Easy way to check is a pile up of mail or if someone else picks it up. Also, if a person doesn't get mail for a while, he might be having it forwarded. Lots of people have vacation houses, if you find one of these your in luck. The woods are always fun to sleep in. There are lots of places you can sleep, just use your head.

I think that should just about cover it. Hope you use something in this file one day and it works out good for you. Until next time don't let the munchies get to you!

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HOW TO MAKE GENUINE LOOKING FAKE PICTURE ID'S

By Steelgrave

In the world we live in, you're a nobody if you're under the age of 21. With the help of this file, you will be able to instantly turn 21 years old, which in turn will help you get a life. Well then, let's get on with it!!!

Materials:

  • 1 business sized envelope with a company logo
  • 1 write-protect tab (from the good old 5.25" disk days)
  • 1 blue or purple piece of poster board (glossy)
  • 1 passport photo of yourself
  • Heat Transfer Typewriter
  • X-acto knife

Directions:
1- At the creases on the sides, cut the envelope so you can unfold it. It should look like this after cutting:

			----------\ 
| | | \
| | | /
----------/

2- Put the envelope in the typewriter. Place the typing just below the logo. Set the typewriter to 1.5 line spacing. The headers on each line should be in bold type. Your info should be in plain type. Now type the following:

			Name:  Your Name (Real of Fake) 
SS#.: Your SS# (Real or Fake)
DOB.: Your date of birth (Real or Fake)
Pos.: Collegiate Rep.
Sig.: ___________________

3- Cut the envelope down to a decent size for an ID. Make sure you leave enough room on the right for your picture.
4- Take the blue or purple posterboard and cut it down to the same size as the front part of the ID.
5- Now with a light touch of glue, stick the two pieces together. Let it dry. You should now have a small card that on the front has the logo/info and the back should be purple or blue, whichever color you used.
6- Take the write-protect tab and stick it a little above the center on the purple/blue side.
7- Take your picture and cut it down to a size that will allow it to fit easily on the front right side of the card.
8- With a very little glue, stick the picture on the card. Let it dry.
9- Now take the card to a stationary store and have it laminated. The store owners shouldn't ask you any questions. If for some reason they do, just tell them it's none of their business. If they still insist on knowing, tell them to fuck off and take your business elsewhere. The lamination should cost about $5.00.
10- Now, when you get home you will need the X-acto knife. With a ruler, very carefully cut off the excess lamination, so that you only have a 1/8" inch border. Also, very carefully, round the corners.

Go out and use your new, "REAL" ID!!!

Variation:
For all you kiddies out there who are too young to be 21, you can have the ID say 18. For the kiddies who don't look 18 yet, you'll just have to wait till you hit puberty.

Sample ID:
Front of ID

	__________________________________________________ 
| ------ Int'l Business Machines |
| | logo | 666 Hell's Lane ____________ |
| ------ Deviltown, USA 12345 | | |
| | | |
| Name: Joe Cybertits | Photo | |
| SS#.: 123-45-6789 | | |
| DOB.: Feb. 16, 1971 | | |
| Pos.: Collegiate Rep. |____________| |
| Sig.: _________________ |
--------------------------------------------------

Back of ID

	__________________________________________________ 
| |
| |
| ________ |
| | | |
| |________| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
--------------------------------------------------

Tips on using ID:

  1. If you use any fake information on the ID such as name, social security number and the like, make sure you can memorize them.
  2. If anybody asks, just say that you represent that specific company at a college. You sell their products/services to students and faculty.
  3. The ID's will fool anyone who doesn't spend too much time looking at it or has no idea of what a real ID is. Use people's stupidity to your advantage. Use it anywhere and everywhere, just be sure that you never show it to a cop. Most cops will spot the fake ID in a second.

Well, that's it for today boys and girls.

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How to Make Security Access Cards

By Lord God Xerobe

MATERIALS NEEDED:

  • Metal cutter of some sort (see below)
  • Sheet of metal (see below)
  • A steady hand!

You know the card I'm referring to. All the cool guys have them and most places have them for accessing secured areas. Most security card readers have modem hookups that can be hacked, but first you must learn how to make the cards. Those security cards are very annoying yet quite easy to duplicate. The major suppliers of these cards are Siolex/Chectpiot and Panfields. These are the most common security cards and the type that I will be discussing today.

The insides of these cards look much like a metal comb. There are many thin pieces of metal that look like a comb. These are magnetic and recreating them is quite simple. Simply take a piece of sheet metal. The thinner, the better; 1/10 of an inch would be ideal. This can be found in any good hardware store or metal workers shop. The longer in length the better and about 3 inches in width is also ideal. Anything longer will work fine, shorter will NOT work. Although the longer the better, remember the longer it is the less concealable it will be.

Now we come to the more difficult part, making the dummy card. For this you will need a metal saw, or any way to cut metal precisely, and a VERY accurate tape measure. I mean about 1/15 of an inch. Now start at about 1/14 of an inch in from one end of the metal sheet. It gets easier! After this, go another 1/13 of an inch. Then 1/12 of an inch (see a pattern).... 1/11 1/10 now stop! You are up to the 1/10 of an inch mark.. of rather you have just made that. Now go about 1/8 of an inch then 1/6 then start the process all over from 1/14 to 1/10 then 1/8 then 1/6. After you have done this about half way to the end of your metal sheet, STOP. Now go another 1/2 inch and make a slit. (NOTE ALL SLITS Should be AT MOST 1/20 of an inch) Now starting from 1 inch then 1/2 an inch go up to 1/3 then 1/4 then 1/5 until you get to 1/14, STOP. If you are not at the end of your metal sheet start at 1 inch and go back to 1/10 but this is not usually necessary. Okay, your sheet of metal looks kind of funny doesn't it? Well, it should! Cut off any additional length of the metal trying to leave about an inch leeway. Okay, you should have a sheet of metal about 3-4 inches. This is good. Take a powerful magnet, nothing great, an electrical magnet will do fine. Rub your sheet of metal over this for 1-3 minutes, rubbing ONE way only NOT back and forth. Rub one way then lift it up, bring it back and start all over again. The longer you do this the longer it will hold its field. Now you are set. The theory behind this is that the groves on the cards are not high tech, just magnetized metal going through the receiver at predefined intervals which form a code. Much like if you could picture a metal barcode that is magnetic. Then when you make your toy, it covers the whole span of space differences between the smallest space and the longest. The newest companies have larger gaps which is why the last step is not necessary, yet in some cases useful.

The use of the magnetized metal sheet as a card is fairly simple. Take your electrical magnet and magnetize it one more time, before finally setting off to do the deed. Once you are there, start from the top and QUICKLY run the piece of metal from the top of the card reader to the total bottom making sure that all groves come in contact with the whole reader. After a second or two it will admit you, for it reads the correct card number. The only problem I have found is that doing this two slowly will cause the computer to register that there is a card in the slot, yet the certain card cannot gain access to the desired area. The computer will "malfunction" in a way and assume using binary the '1' in all cases. It is that simple.

A -/- CORE -/- InfoText

HOW TO GET FREE LIBRARY BOOKS

By The Lord God Xerobe and Steelgrave

Okay, You take the book of the shelf.. that new McAffe Virii book.. You know the one, well you decide that you want that for your own personal collection... or at least a long term borrow. You know that those annoying beepers will beep at you as soon as you cross the area in which the field scans. Now the book itself is NOT what sets off the alarm nor is it the bar code. The alarm trigger is hidden inside the book and is not easily seen unless you are looking for it. If you have a book, flip through the first 25 or so pages, while trying to pull them apart. You should be looking for a long metal strip, which is glued between two pages, right next to the bind. This strip is called, "The TattleTape". Just peel the tape off and you can walk out of the library with the book. If you have a magazine, you have to look through the whole thing, because libraries sometimes put multiple strips, but only in magazines. No hassles, no bother of ever returning it.

A -/- CORE -/- InfoText

Store Scams

By Belial

Want another way to make a dishonest buck? Of course you do. Well, here is a scam that is a little honest and dishonest. All you need to do is to find a chain store (same store in a lot of different places). It's really simple. Have your friend shoplift a bunch of stuff. Then you buy exactly what he stole. You then leave the store. You then go right back and feed them a line that you were just here and say you didn't get a receipt. They should then give you another receipt. Now you have two receipts. Now you and your partner each go to a different branch of the same store and return the goods and get the cash. Real simple, just don't get caught. Have fun with this sneaky con.

A -/- CORE -/- InfoText

How to Rip off Bill Changers

By Killer

Everyone these days is looking to make a quick buck. Well, here is a scam that works. It involves those dollar bill changers that you see everywhere. You know, the machines that change $1 into 4 Quarters or $5 into 20 Quarters. Here's how to do it. Photocopy a 5 dollar bill, front and back. Ok, now you have 2 sheets of white paper with a picture of the front of the $5 bill on one sheet and the back on the other. Now, very CAREFULLY cut out the bill on both sheets so they "create" a fake $5 bill when they are placed back to back. Make sure it is cut exactly or it will not work. Now, just find your local dollar bill changer and make sure no one is around. Now you can slip that puppy into the slot... and it SHOULD eat the fake $5 bill and release 20 quarters. You can do this numerous times with either photocopied $5 bills OR $1 bills. Do not keep using the same machine for too long. The company that owns it will find out. Have fun and don't get caught.

A -/- CORE -/- InfoText

Dedication

As many of you may have heard already, Raven and Plastik, have been busted on several felonies. Not only were Raven and Plastik, good friends of mine, but they were friends to many other people. Most people who attend the 2600 meeting in New York knew both Raven and Plastik. At the current moment, Plastik is in jail in Ottisville and Raven is out bail for about a year. When the trial goes to court, myself and the staff and members of CORE, hope they get a fair trial and as little jail time as possible. Due to this predicament, we have decided to dedicate this issue to Raven and Plastik. I have been in contact with both Raven and Plastik and the entire story is beginning to unfold. The person responsible for ratting on Raven and Plastik is:

	David Baker 
300 West 54th Street (8th Ave.)
NY, NY
(212) 246-1654
Also, his mother owns a vegi/fruit store at 9th Ave., between
43rd and 44th St., called BAKS.

We are not supplying you with this information so you may mess up his or his parent's credit or whatever else you can think of. We have just supplied it. Although, we cannot stop you from doing whatever it is that you may feel like doing. As soon as we learn more about their case, we will let you know by writing text files and uploading them to our regular distro sites and having our couriers spread them to every BBS they can get to.

<<- Raven ->> <<- Plastik ->>
The Best of Friends


Group greets go out to:
2600 and all attendees, High Tech Hoods, Phortune 500, Int'l Information Retrieval Guild (IIRG) and MPi.

Individual greets go out to:
Raven, Plastik, Black Vertigo, Ceilo, Electron, Magic, ShareWare, DialTone, Dezz, Dark Image, Buran, Chronos Cobalt and Pebbles.

Closing Comments

Well, what do you think? Did you like it? We'd like to know. Just call CORE World HeadQuarters, Countdown to Extinction, and let us know what you think. We would greatly appreciate it. I would like to thank the many people that made this magazine possible, because without them, we would be dead. So, THANKS!!!! Look for many new features in future issues. Also, don't forget to grab the latest and greatest h/p texts and utilities at any CORE distro site. Well, catch you in the next mag!!!

Steelgrave
-/- CORE President -/-

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